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COLD SPRING HARBOR, NY 

​Events & exhibits
​for all ages, all year!

DOUGHNUTS AT SEA

6/6/2019

4 Comments

 
By Nomi Dayan, Executive Director ​
I enjoyed it mightily."
Henrietta Dublois, 1858
​Friday, June 7, 2019 is National Doughnut Day. Taking place the first Friday of June, the day’s origins began in 1938 as a fundraiser for The Salvation Army.

Different cultures have made varying versions of fried dough balls for millennia. Today, 10 billion doughnuts are baked annually in the US alone – enough pastries to stretch around the earth 19 times.
​ 
No American whaling journey was complete without the ceremonial serving of donuts. To Yankee whalers, these fritters were more than a sweet treat. Doughnuts were served as a special reward when the crew reached the milestone of having produced 1,000 barrels of whale oil. 

19th century doughnut recipes typically contained milk, sugar, eggs, yeast, and a dash of spice, such as cinnamon. All of these ingredients were typically unavailable on a whaleship. Instead, the ship’s cook would have fashioned a simple dough from flour, water and molasses. To leaven the dough, he would have added pearlash or saletarus, two precursors to baking soda. He would then form the dough into little balls. The characteristic donut hole was not yet present in early doughnuts, which more closely resembled a nut of dough, hence the title “dough nut.” ​
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Doughnut-eating contest on May 20, 1922. Courtesy Library of Congress Prints & Photographs.
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19th C Skimmer, a tool used to lift blubber in and out of vats of oil - and perfect for donuts! See one on display at the Whaling Museum. Photo Courtesy of National Museum of American History.
The cook would have then passed the dough on to the crew on deck, who took care of the cooking.  The fritters were deep-fried in none other than whale oil in trypots - enormous, black cauldrons filled with shimmering whale oil rendered from whale blubber. The dough balls were lowered into these vats of oil, the crew watching them bob in the boiling gold before lifting them out with a skimmer. This long-handled strainer was designed to separate blubber from oil, but was perfectly suited for lifting doughnuts out as well. The crew would have wiped their dirty hands on the backsides of their pants and closed their eyes as they bit into these fresh, hot, puffy doughnuts, literally eating their bounty - a welcome change from the monotonous, paltry fare normally served on a whaleship.
​
Several whaling wives who traveled with their husband-captains at sea recorded the serving of doughnuts. On Sunday, July 26, 1846, Mary Brewster wrote in her journal, “At 7PM boats got fast to a whale, at 9 got him to the ship. Men all singing and bawling [boiling] Doughnuts, Doughnuts tomorrow, as this will certainly make us 1000 bbls [barrels] and it is custom among the whaleman a bache [batch] of doughnuts to every thousand. Thus ends with good weather.” The next day, she noted, “This afternoon the men and frying doughnuts in the try pots and seem to be enjoying themselves merrily.”
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Detail from Diary of Mary Brewster describing Doughnuts on July 20, 1846
On another occasion, Henrietta Deblois stepped in to help with the cooking process. She recorded on the Merlin in 1858: “Today has been our doughnut fare, the first we have ever had. The Steward, Boy, and myself have been at work all the morning. We fried or boiled three tubs for the forecastle [sleeping area for crew] - one for the steerage. In the afternoon about one tub full for the cabin and right good were they too, not the least taste of oil – they came out of the pots perfectly dry. The skimmer was so large that they could take out a 1/2 of a peck at a time. I enjoyed it mightily."
​
While whale oil was typically off-tasting, those who ate the donuts described only deliciousness. One exception was missionary Betsey Stockton, who sailed on a whaler to Hawaii in 1822. She wrote, “The crew [is] engaged in making oil of two black fish [whales] killed yesterday… we have had corn parched in the oil; and doughnuts fried in it. Some of the company liked it very much. I could not prevail on myself to eat it.”

Keep an eye out for special offers from local donut shops in celebration of this day! 

1845 Recipe for Dough Nuts

Two eggs, one cup of sugar, half a pint of sour milk; a little saletarus [baking soda]; salt and spice to your taste; a small piece of butter or cream is better, if you have it; mix the articles together one hour before you fry the cakes; mould with flour.

New England Economical Housekeeper,
by Mrs. E. A. Howland,
​1845
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​Read More:
  • Saltwater Foodways: New Englanders and Their Food, at Sea and Ashore in the Nineteenth Century, by Sandra Louise Oliver
  • The Donut: History, Recipes, and Lore from Boston to Berlin, by Michael Krondl
  • Donuts: An American Passion, by John T. Edge
  • Petticoat Whalers, by Joan Druett
4 Comments

So, What did Whalers Really Eat?

7/20/2018

5 Comments

 
By Joan Lowenthal

Any whaler would tell you that the worst thing about living on a whaleship was not the filth, the labor, or the perpetual stink. It was likely the food.
 
At the start of the voyage, vessels set out with dried peas, beans, potatoes, rice, hard tack biscuits, salt pork, salt beef, salt fish, dry fruits, and molasses. Livestock such as pigs, chickens, ducks, and goats were commonly kept aboard for milk, eggs, and meat. The animals were either kept in pens or allowed to roam.
 
When these supplies ran out, vessels would restock at various ports for fresh water, vegetables, and livestock. The islands in the Pacific Ocean offered a welcome variety of fresh foods like breadfruit, bananas, plantains, coconuts, oranges, pineapples, papayas, and figs, as well as pigs, chickens, fresh fish, and occasionally seabirds.
 
Unfortunately, the lower-ranked and hardest-working crew members did not get to enjoy many of these worldly treats. Only the captain, his family (if they were aboard), and officers ate the choicest foods. They took their meals sitting at a table in the main cabin and were served on china. They enjoyed the luxuries of sugar, oil, cinnamon, cloves, hams, cheese, butter, onions and pickles. Some foods were saved for special occasions such as gamming (socializing with the crews of another whaling vessels) or perhaps for port officials.
 
The rest of the crew did not eat in such a civilized fashion. They were served out of one large tub, and since they didn’t have chairs, they sat on their sea chests to eat.
 
But the lack of refinery when eating was far from the worst of whalers’ problems. Keeping food free of infestation and rot was most challenging.  Maggots, weevils, worms, and roaches were commonly found in food, and whalers would find themselves picking the bugs out of their grub.
 
Annie Ricketson, wife of the Captain of the New Bedford whaleship A.R. Tucker, spent nearly three years aboard the ship in the 1870’s. She described in her journal one of the less appetizing ways to deal with roaches in food: she tapped her bread hard on the table to dislodge the pests or sometimes she dunked the bread into her coffee and waited until the roaches floated to the top and then skimmed them off.
 
Maintaining a fresh water supply was also challenging. The crew would attempt to refill empty water barrels with rainwater.  Sometimes they would resort to collecting muddy river water, adding tea or coffee to improve the taste.
 
Whalers did fish when possible.  They had to be careful about fishing in different ports.  Sometimes copper salts leaked in harbor waters from ships’ hulls, poisoning the fish.  To test the fish’s safety, it was cooked with a silver coin that turned black if the fish was poisonous and had to be thrown out. 
 
Whalers near the Galapagos Islands would make a special stop to capture giant tortoises for meat. The Phoenix recorded seven “boat loads” of tortoises brought on board in 1835.  Annie Ricketson commented on the taste of turtle soup: "It was real nice and tasted like chicken soup. For tea, we had some of the liver and meat fried. It was just as tender as could be and the first I ever ate."  

​A common question of visitors to the Whaling Museum is if whalers ate whales. The answer is occasionally, and sometimes grudgingly. American whalers felt the gamey flavor and tough texture classified whale meat as improper for consumption. Some found the taste of dolphins and porpoises more palatable, while others didn’t mind the taste of the giant whales. When Mary Chipman Lawrence accompanied her captain husband on board the whaler Addison, she wrote on September 1, 1858, “We have been eating bowhead meat for several days, made with port into sausage cakes, also fried and, it is really good eating, far before salt pork in my estimation.” 

Even though the food was at times very monotonous, most cooks had some specialties. If a holiday was coming up, a whaler might hope for sea pie (a popular flour dumpling with meat and the ground bones of porpoises), lobscouse (a stew of salted meat, onions, and pepper), and duff ( a type of fruitcake made of lard, flour, and molasses).
A whaler faces the viewer holding a tin cup and plate filled with food.
Portrait of unidentified crewman on deck holding meal rations. Collection of New Bedford Whaling Museum. 199.6.278

A galapagos tortoise on the deck of a whaleship.
A Galapagos Tortoise (Testudo ephippium), on the U.S.S. Albatross. Found on Duncan Island in 1891 by C.H. Townsend. Photograph by C.H. Townsend.

Black and white photo of whalers standing in line with plates on deck
Mealtime on a Whaleship. Collection of New Bedford Whaling Museum. 2000.101.2.97

For more information on food aboard whaleships check out....
​
  • www.girlonawhaleship.org
  • Laura Ricketson Doherty, Annie Ricketson’s Journal;  The Remarkable Voyage of the Only Woman Aboard a Whaling Ship (Heritage Books, 2010)
  • The Captain’s Best Mate, the Journal of Mary Chipman Lawrence on the Whaler Addison, 1856-1860.  Edited by Stanton Garner.  (University Press of New England, Hanover and London., Brown University 1966)
  • Charles L. Draper, Cooking on Nineteenth-Century Whaling Ships (Blue Earth Books, 2001)
  • Townsend, Charles Haskins. The Galapagos tortoises in their relation to the whaling industry. (Zoologica v.4, no.3, 1925)

5 Comments

Like a Kid in a Candy Store

6/7/2018

2 Comments

 
Trade card advertising a New York confectionery. Victorian Children playing tug of war with a wrapped hard candy.
Trade card advertising a New York confectionery. Victorian Children are playing tug of war with a wrapped hard candy.
By Nomi Dayan, Executive Director

​
As you reach for a sweet treat this June in honor of National Candy Month, consider how the abundance of candy today is a rather exceptional thing.

For much of human history, sugar was an expensive indulgence reserved for celebratory desserts. Sugary treats were a luxury for the rich. People also used sugar for therapeutic functions, with early candy serving as a form of medicine, including lozenges for coughs or digestive troubles. Sugar was also used as a preservative; similar to salt, sugar dried fruits and vegetables, preventing spoilage. But all in all, sugar was carefully conserved. In George Washington’s time, the average American consumed only 6 pounds of sugar a year (far less than the 130 or so pounds consumed annually per person today).

The use of sugar swelled dramatically in 1800’s. Suddenly, sugar was everywhere, and with it came new technological advances in candy production. Sugar shipped from slave-powered plantations in the West Indies became more affordable and available with new, steam-powered industrial processes. These changes were part of the Industrial Revolution, made possible by prized whale oil and its valuable lubricating properties. In 1830, Louisiana had the largest sugar refinery in the world. The invention of the Mason jar in 1858 drove demand for sugar for canning, and in 1876, the Hawaiian Reciprocity Treaty made sugar even more available.  People couldn’t get enough of sweetness.

The availability of sugar brought a slew of new inventions to the culinary scene: candy! Confectioneries sprang up everywhere. The shops’ best customers were children, who spent their earnings on penny candy. Hard candies became very popular. As Yankee whaling reached its peak, Victorian-era sweets boomed with a succession of creations: the first chocolate bar was made in 1847; chewing gum followed in 1848; marshmallows were invented in 1850, and in 1880, fudge. People’s breaths were taken away when sweets with soft cream centers were tasted at the Great Exhibition in London in 1851.

Some candies, especially hard ones, were sold as being ‘wholesome’ and even healthy. Unfortunately, candy was anything but nourishing. Sugar was sometimes adulterated with cheaper Plaster of Paris or chalk. Other candies were far more toxic. In 1831, Dr, William O’Shaughnessy toured different confectionery shops in London and had a range of dyed candy chemically analyzed; he found a startling number of sweets colored with lead, mercury, arsenic and copper.

But as ubiquitous as candy was on land, a sweet treat was quite rare at sea, especially on a whaleship. Sugar on board was a still a luxury reserved for the captain and officers. The crew had to settle for molasses, which was often infested; one whaler wrote it tasted like “tar.” Candy only makes brief glimpses in whaling logbooks, or daily records. On May 22, 1859, William Abbe journaled on the ship Atkins Adams: “Cook & Thompson Steward making molasses candy in galley.” (Earlier on the voyage, he described molasses kegs as “the haunts of the cockroach.”)  

Laura Jernegan, a young daughter who sailed with her father and family on a three-year whaling voyage, wrote in her diary on board the Roman, “Feb 16, 1871. It is quote pleasant today. The hens have laid 50 eggs…” Then, an exciting thing happened – she passed another whaleship at sea, the Emily Morgan. There was a whaling wife aboard, too! Laura wrote: “Mrs. Dexter [the wife of Captain Benjamin Dexter] sent Prescott [her brother] and I some candy.”

In other cultures, whales still facilitated the treat scene – no sugar needed.  Frozen whale blubber was (and is) a traditional treat for the Inuit and Chukchi people. Called muktuk, cubes are cut from whale skin and blubber and conventionally are served raw.  
​
While whaling in our country is a thing of the past, the years of unrestricted whaling reflect how, in essence, people treated the ocean “like a kid in a candy store,” as noted by author Robert Sullivan. In the 20th century, so many whales were caught so quickly and efficiently that soon even whalers themselves were worried about saving the whales. Today, as we continue to gather resources from the sea, we must ensure the ocean can replenish itself faster than we can sweep its candy off the shelves.
Sketch in pen of children making candy on a table
Candy-making, 1888 by Rosina Sherwood. Courtesy Library of Congress Prints and Photographs Division

Bring Candy History into Your Kitchen

Nut Sweet
2 cups brown sugar
1/4 cup water
1 tablespoon butter or oil
1 cup walnuts, broken
In a saucepan combine sugar, water, and butter. Cook over low heat until the syrup dropped in cold water forms a soft ball (238 degrees F). Add nuts. Remove from heat and stir until the candy is thick. Drop in spoonsful onto waxed paper and let the patties harden.
  • The Thirteen Colonies Cookbook by Mary Donovan et al
Apricot Sweetmeats
1 pound dried apricots, ground
1 1/2 cups sugar
1/2 cup orange juice
Pecan or walnut halves, or almonds
Superfine granulated sugar
Combine apricots, granulated sugar and orange juice in a saucepan. Cook over low heat for 10 minutes, stirring occasionally to prevent sticking. Drop by teaspoon onto waxed paper. When cool, place a pecan or walnut half or an almond in the center, rolling apricot mixture around it. Drop each ball into superfine granulated sugar to coat. Cover tightly to store. Makes 3 dozen.
  • A Cooking Legacy, by Virginia T. Elverson & Mary Ann McLanahan 

2 Comments

Celebrating the Fourth of July -- on a Whaleship

7/3/2017

0 Comments

 
By Nomi Dayan, Executive Director

While most people today visit the Whaling Museum while on vacation or during the weekend, there was no vacation or days off for a whaler.

Work was paramount for whaling crews. However, a whaler might look forward to the three holidays for which there was a chance of observance while at sea: the Fourth of July, Thanksgiving, and Christmas (with Thanksgiving being considered the most important of holiday at the time).

Captains dictated if and how a holiday was observed. If there were instruments on board, nationalistic music was played and sung. Some crews engaged in whaleboat races for sport. If the Captain was feeling generous, a special meal might be extended to even the lowest-ranking crew members.

Culinary celebrations gave welcome respite from a monotonous and dreary diet of food which was often infested or spoiled. On a holiday, whalers might enjoy sea pies, a kind of pot pie which sometimes contained dolphin meat, or lobscouse, a stew of salted meat, onions, and sea biscuits. Dessert might be mincemeat pie, which consisted of chopped meat, suet, raisins, apples, and spices, dandyfunk, a baked mass of hard tack crackers and molasses, or duff, a boiled pudding.

Robert Weir aboard the Clara Bell journaled about a distinct feast on July 4th. He wrote how the crew fired salutes and enjoyed “coconuts, roast pig, minced pie, soft tack, ginger cake, pepper sauce, Molasses, pepper, rice, and pickles – quite extensive for a sailor.” 

Aside from the chance of a special treat, July 4th - as with other holidays at sea - was likely to be a disappointment for those hoping for a break from work. Whaler William B. Whitecar Jr. recalled that when a crew member protested spinning yarn on the fourth of July, the commanding mate’s answer was “Yes – it is fourth of July at home, but not here.”

Many logbooks, official records of daily activity on whaleships, do not document any festivities on this date, instead solely focusing on catching whales. The logbook of the Lafayette off the coast of Peru recorded July 4, 1843 only as an unfruitful day: “So ended this Fourth of July pursuing whales.”

Women who joined their captain-husbands at sea often noted the marked lack of observance of July 4th. Eliza Williams, who sailed with Captain Thomas Williams on the Florida from Massachusetts to the North Pacific and birthed two children during the voyage, wrote in her journal in 1859 in the Shantar Sea: "July 4th… some of the boats, it seems see aplenty of Whales, and once in a while are lucky enough to take one, but not often.  Our boats lost two of their Men and that was not all … It doesn't seem much like the Fourth of July, up here."  

A few years later, she recorded in 1861: "July 4th. Today is Independence.  Oh how I would like to be at home and enjoy this day with family and friends.  We cannot celebrate it here with any degree of pleasure. Just after dinner, we spoke the bark Monmouth [Cold Spring Harbor ship], Capt. Ormsby...He reported the loss of the clipper ship Polar Star, Capt. Wood, Master. Capt. Ormsby also told us that the Alice Frazier is lost..."

Mary C. Lawrence also described July 4th as being subdued while aboard the Addison with her husband Captain Samuel Lawrence, having sailed from Massachusetts to the Pacific and Arctic during 1856-1860: "The Fourth of July today and the Sabbath.  How different our situation from our friends at home! A gale of wind with ice and land to avoid. The ice probably would be a refreshing sight to them.  Probably the celebration, if there is any to come off, will take place tomorrow.  We had a turkey stuffed and roasted with wild ducks, which are very plenty here. Perhaps tomorrow we may get a whale..."

In 1861, her journal followed the same theme: “July 4.  Minnie [daughter] arose early this morning and hoisted our flag, which was all the celebration we could boast of, as we did not get that whale that we hoped to.  A beautiful day, which I improved by washing, after waiting ten days for a clear day."

Martha Brown of Orient, Long Island, who had been dropped in Hawaii to give birth while her husband and crew continued onward to hunt whales, described her feelings of isolation. She addressed her husband in her journal on July 4th: “Yes the 4 of July has agane passed, and how think you, love, I have spent the day? Not as I did the last in your society, with our Dear little Ella [daughter left at home], but alone. Yes, truly alone. … My thoughts have been far from here today.”

There is great irony in considering how the very workers who powered America’s signature industry could not in reality celebrate its iconic national holiday. On the day when citizens on land joined feasts illuminated by whale candles and enjoyed parades wearing clothing stiffened by whalebone and fabric produced on machinery lubricated by whale oil, the very workers who produced these products were kept working, their eyes focused on catching the next whale.

Bibliography
  • Brown, Martha Smith Brewer.  She Went A-Whaling: The Journal of Martha Smith Brewer Brown from Orient, Long Island, New York, Around the World on the Whaling Ship Lucy Ann, 1847- 1849. Transcribed and edited by Anne MacKay; with a foreword by Joan Druett. Orient, NY: Oysterponds Historical Society, 1993.
  • The Captain's Best Mate, The Journal of Mary Chipman Lawrence on the Whaler Addison, 1856-1860. Stanton Garner, editor; 1966 by Brown University.
  • Oliver, Sandra. Saltwater Foodways. Mystic, Connecticut, Mystic Seaport Museum: 1995.
  • Robert Weir Papers. Manuscripts Collection 245. G. W. Blunt White Library, Mystic Seaport
  • Whitecar, William B. Four years aboard the whaleship: Embracing cruises in the Pacific, Atlantic, Indian, and Antarctic oceans, in the years 1855, '6, '7, '8, '9. J.B. Lippincott & Company: 1864
  • Williams, Harold.  Whaling Wife: Being Eliza Williams’ Own Journal of Her Thirty-Eight Month Voyage with Her Husband, Master of the Ship Florida, from New Bedford to Japan and the Sea of Okhotsk in Pursuit of the Great Whales in American Heritage, Vol. 15, No. 4, June 1964, p. 64-79. http://www.americanheritage.com/content/whaling-wife

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Patriotic-themed scrimshaw from the collection of The Whaling Museum.


Maritime History in the Kitchen:

​
Plum Duff Recipe for July 4th

On July 4th, 1857, Mary Lawrence enjoyed dinner at sea followed by “a boiled pudding, or duff as we call it.”
 
The word “duff” originates from the northern English/Scottish form of “dough.” Boiled or steamed puddings were popular in the 1800’s and a treat on American vessels. Plain duff was sometimes served on Sundays, but plum duff was reserved for holidays.
 
John Perkins, who sailed on the Tiger in 1845, relished duff: “At noon we had duff for the first time which I believe all sailors think to be the greatest feast possible.” The dish may have been an acquired taste for others; Charles Abbey, a seaman on the Intrepid in 1859, wrote, “It is simply flour and water with dried apples mixed in and the whole boiled down hard and heavy as lead in a canvas bag… Two months ago I would have turned from it in disgust but now I am glad enough to eat it.”
 
This recipe is based on the writings of Clifford Ashley, who sailed from New Bedford on the whaling bark Sunbeam in 1904, and adapted by Sandra Oliver in Saltwater Foodways. Note that cooks likely did not include sugar in duff intended for low-ranking crew.
 
Ingredients

2 c  flour                                      ½ tsp baking soda
1 tsp cream of tartar  
inch of salt
¼ c melted shortening            
¼ c sugar
2/3 c raisins (dried apples were also historically used)
2/3 c water
1 pudding bag or cloth

Optional: Cinnamon, ginger, nutmeg, and ground cloves. (Frederick Harlow Harlow stated aboard the Akbar in 1875: “Too much spice and wine is not good for sailors. It is liable to ruin one’s appetite.”)
 
Directions
Set a large pot of water on and heat to boiling. Sift together dry ingredients. Stir in melted shortening, sugar, and raisins. Wet the pudding bag or cloth in the boiling water, and dust it liberally with flour. Add the water to the dough and mix well; the dough should be fairly thick, but not stiff. Turn into the pudding bag, tie the bag leaving room for the duff to expand. Or put in a greased pudding mold. Put the duff in the boiling water, suspending it by tying it to a spoon if necessary to keep it from touching the bottom of the pot.  If in a bag, boil for four hours; steam for five hours if in a mold.  When done, turn it out of the cloth onto a serving dish. Let it stand a moment to set up. Duff has a gummy exterior and cake-like interior. Slice it and serve drizzled with molasses.

​Serves 12
​
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